Corn snakes:Corn snakes are the most available snakes in the pet trade today. Vast numbers of corn snakes are captive bred annually, and are justifiably one of the most popular snakes of all time. Corn snakes are relatively small, rarely exceeding five feet in length, active feeders, tolerate a wide variety of environmental conditions, come in a dazzling array of color morphs, and are very easy to breed. All of these factors combined make the corn snake an excellent choice for both the beginning and advanced reptile hobbyist.They also come in virtually any color for in stance, Blue, Red, Pink, Albino, ect.
Habitat: Corn snakes are relatively small, and as such, they do not require large enclosures. A baby corn snake can happily live in a ten gallon aquarium or enclosure of similar size. Some people choose to keep baby corn snakes in plastic shoe boxes with holes punched in the side. This type of enclosure is acceptable as long as appropriate heating is provided. Upon reaching full adult size (about three to four years), a corn snake will require an enclosure with the minimum dimensions of a standard twenty gallon long aquarium. Larger aquariums such as a thirty gallon breeder or fifty-five gallon tank are also appropriate. No matter whether your corn snake lives in a humble home or a palace, they are all really the same. I have mine in a 20 gallon tank and he is living fine though.
Diet: Corn snakes are rarely picky eaters and if they have the appropriate heating and lighting they will almost all the time eat. One thing to remember is feed him/her a pinkie that is about the diameter of the snakes head. And if your corn snake is not eating his/her pinkies try cutting it on the back and that might make him smell it a little more and then he might eat.If they are threatened they might regurgitate their food and then get very sick. Some snakes also regurgitate their food if they do not have the rite heating for their enclorsure. And if you feed your snake already frozen pinkies, when you warm it up, make sure it is not cold inside or the snake might get sick and may even die.
Breeding: If you are going to breed your corn snakes you will have to put your female corn snakes in a separate container than your male/males. Feed them twice as much as you would normally starting in September (So they have enough fat to sustain them through the winter because they are carrying eggs). If any questions plesae post them on our questions page.
Heating: There are several choices for appropriate corn snake heating. Whatever choice of heating is used, it is very important to provide one area of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature is 80-85 degrees F. Corn snakes, like all reptiles, do not make their own body heat and rely on a behavioral mechanism called thermoregualtion to regulate their body temperature. Thermoregulation means that when a reptile is too cool, it moves to an area to warm itself, and when it is too hot, it moves to a cooler area. Access to warm areas are critically important to the health of your snake. Appropriate heating is required for proper digestion and the effective functioning of the immune system. If the tank has a screen top, a shop light or metal reflector may be placed on top of the cage, to one side, with a heating bulb inside to create a basking area of 80-85 degrees F. What i use is a paper bag to keep in heat. Hope that is enogh heat please if you have any questions post them on our questions page.
